Notes from the Cellar
Vol. 1 – January 2024
Dear DLM Family,
I hope all of you had a cheerful holiday season and are ready for a wonderful 2024. We wrapped up the 2023 harvest just before Christmas when the last of the wines went into barrel. Our last Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested on the 8th of November, bringing our total harvest to almost 70 tons, 140% of last year’s total. With so much volume, I am pleased to report that the quality is very high. A long cool growing season is stressful for the growers - who are worried about grapes ripening before the rainy season - but delivers great results for winemakers as the fruit develops ripe flavors but retains excellent natural acidity. There is much work still to be done, of course, but I am very optimistic about the potential of 2023 to be a landmark vintage here in Sonoma County.
Once wines are pressed, the focus shifts to barrel work. While a few of our white wines remain in stainless steel until bottling, most of our volume spends time in oak barrels. In barrel the Chardonnay and red varieties will go through natural malolactic fermentation, converting the sharp-flavored, crisp malic acid to softer, rounder lactic acid. While many wineries inoculate the wines with malic acid bacteria to control this fermentation, it is a natural process that almost all wines will go through given enough time in the cellar. I monitor every lot in the barrel room individually, and when lots have finished malolactic conversion they get a dose of sulfur dioxide to preserve freshness and prevent growth of unwanted microbes. Some wines also get racked (pumped from barrel to tank and back) after malolactic is complete, which gives them a dose of oxygen to benefit their evolution in barrel and help soften their tannins.
I am looking forward to seeing members at the barrel-tasting event in early March. I will also be joining Jarod for remote sessions with members who purchase our tasting kits of future wines. I had a lot of fun meeting many of you last year and hope to see some new and familiar faces this year.
On a personal note, the holidays are always a time for me to see family and friends in New York where my wife and I grew up. This year was a somber one as my mother sadly passed away just after Christmas. Reflecting on her life reminds me how much joy and pleasure come from spending time with family and friends, and the importance of those relationships in our lives. Even though I miss my mom, I can take solace in the great memories I have of time spent together. If our wines can bring a little extra joy to you and help make some great memories of your own, I will count the time and care crafting those wines as very well spent.
Cheers,
Andrew Schwendeman
Winemaker, De La Montanya Winery
Wines I have Recently Enjoyed:
2021 Chardonnay
Home Ranch, Russian River Valley
On a chilly winter evening, I often find myself holding a glass of Chardonnay. Full-bodied, round, and rich; it just feels right for sipping while cooking dinner or watching a basketball game. The ’21 is in a great spot for drinking right now. The oak is very present yet fully integrated on the palate, which gives the wine a fantastic texture. If you want the wine to feel more crisp, drink at fridge temperature, but I like to let it warm up just a bit to let the aromatics really sing.
2022 Primitivo
Felta Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley
A perfect fireside wine. Big and spicy on the nose with a kiss of vanilla and sweet spice from aging in American oak. Well-balanced on the palate – the acid complements the sweet fruit notes and alcohol beautifully. I like to serve at cellar temperature (If you don’t have a wine fridge or cool basement, pop the bottle in the fridge for 15-20 minutes before serving) which brings out the freshness of the fruit.
2021 Cabernet Sauvignon
Tiza Colina Vineyard, Alexander Valley
Cabernet and steak is a cliché for a reason – it just works. When I’m throwing meat on the grill I often reach for a glass of cab, even something as simple as a cheeseburger. The Tiza Colina Cabernet has a very strong fresh blackberry and floral nose with sweet spice from French oak aging. Fine tannins leading into a long finish.